Less than two hours by ferry from the noise and chaos of Jakarta, Pari Island feels almost unreal. The Indonesian capital's 10 million residents are replaced here by just 1,500. Children spend all day playing barefoot on sandy white beaches, while pristine turquoise waters lap gently at the shore. But paradise has a frag​ile side. Swing sets and picnic tables poke out of the water, reminders of what the rising tides have claimed. "During high tides or tidal floods, the water comes right into the