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A water wave is a shallow-water wave if the water depth d is less than approximately λ/10. It is shown in hydrodynamics that the speed of a shallow-water wave is v = √(gd), so waves slow down as they move into shallower water. Ocean waves, with wavelengths of typically 120 m, are shallow-water waves when the water depth is less than approximately 12 m. Consider a beach where the depth increases linearly with distance from the shore until reaching a depth of 5.0 m at a distance of 120 m. How l
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