In a frypan dry roast salt and pepper over moderate heat. Cool and grind the salt and pepper then mix with rice and flour. Whip egg whites in a separate bowl. Heat oil in a wok or heavy based fry pan.

When the question is “what’s for dinner?” the Italian word “calamari” makes a nicer-sounding answer than “squid.” And squid for supper sounds better than the scientific “cephalopod,” the class of ...